Portland once shimmered with restaurants such as the Swan Dive, 34 Exchange, L'Antibes, Brattle Street, and the Vinyard. Now, if you're hungry for good honest French cooking, we recommend the Restaurant at 98 Provence.

Located on the right side of Ogunquit's starry Shore Drive, this bed & breakfast inn's open dining room charms with its stone fireplace, country-casual glassware and tables (14), open-beamed ceilings, and friendly, informed wait staff.

For appetizers, we tried the Beef Carpaccio served with Marinated Fennel and Fresh Gouda. It was exquisitely thin, snappy, delicious. My partner had the hot, nutty, wonderful Cream of Watercress Soup-best soup we've had this year-as well as the Endive, Watercress and Almond Salad with a Hazelnut Vinaigrette.

For entrees, we chose the Filet of Salmon with Basil Oil and Porcini Mushrooms, which was astonishingly well cooked, and the tender, juicy Venison Medallions served with Sour Cherry Sauce, perfect for fall.

Not only is this restaurant romantic, it is considerate. Fourteen wines are available by the glass so that you can choose freely without being burdened either by your choice or the size of the bottle. Champagne is also available by the half bottle.

Parking's easy, right under the trees. Open through 31 November and definitely, worth the trip. 646-9898.

October 96, Portland Monthly Magazine · Page 41